Converting devices to USB Type-C

פורסם בתאריך 7 מאי 2020
USB Type C is great! ...unless you have to use dongles anyway. Let’s fix that! Also, with Blinkist, the first 100 of you to go to blinkist.com/diyperks are going to get a 7-day trial and 25% off full membership if you decide to go with them. Sweet! Parts list below:
USB C connector board (Amazon) amzn.to/35JPunT
USB C connector board (eBay) rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532...
Soldering iron kit (Amazon) amzn.to/2WBlhUa
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תגובות: 7 623

  • Hi everyone! Hope you enjoy the video. Here's a link to the USB C breakout boards on Amazon: amzn.to/35JPunT

    • There are a few very important things you didn't explain in this video, there are a lot more USB then just USB-A 1.0, USB-2.0 and USB-C 3.0, there are USB-B 2.1, USB-2.2 plus, then there are many different colors that mean many different things, such as red that is high power and or a 10gig transfer but not both at the same time for example, yellow that means it will remain powered when the system is off to allow for charging and many more options, Blue, Light blue, Reb ports, yellow, teal, Green and a few other colors and not only do they support different types, they also have a huge different power outputs, plus the over all transfer rate for data, so wiring this wrong not only can it fry the device if done wrong, even done right if its not the right power it can fry the dongle or system. This is why the new USB-C 4.x protocol will start at 20 gig min transfer for compatible C devices an can a the moment go up to 40 gig and further revisions they hope to hit the 100-200gig and maybe even 400gig transfer rates. I LOVE your videos bur I really felt you didn't do what you should have to warn people of the risks here especially with doing soldering when there is a better/cheaper/easier ways to do this there are very tiny dongles no cables, and require no converter they are smaller then your new dongle you name that that are much safter and not exp to buy off amazon and those does not have the same chance of toasting that device of system and these done use any wines so they are very very small and then you can just plug one adapter into your new PC's USB-C port and all other USB-A/b just go into that dongle so you just have to have one you could also get a a small USB-C Hub that has backwards support for USB-A-B plugs plus other additional USB-C :)

    • i definitely would like to see the webcam video

    • I have Bluetooth earbuds that use USBmicroB chargers but most of my devices use USB C chargers. So I'd really love to just have one charger for every device

    • mouse is compatible with usb 2.0?

  • I love this dude like he shows content that can actually be used in real life application and uses parts that are easily accessible

    • Always apriciate his work. Respect.

    • But not easy to put together. You better have the required knowledge to follow this video because there's no way it's going to succeed flawlessly.

    • @Josh Bryant "you still have to charge your device with the old usb cable" or you could... wait for it... modify the mouse too

    • @Josh Bryant Well, technically you could combine this video and the laptop webcam reuse video and build a USB-C webcam. Maybe it even works on a phone

  • the way this man has always got a smile on his face really makes me happy, i know he’s suffered with depression before and it’s so so wholesome to see him channeling his hidden happiness with these videos. keep up the good work matt, we love and appreciate you and every project you make. you’re a huge inspiration to many including myself to get into DIY projects ❤️

    • @FEAFi no no, i wish i did lol. i follow him on twitter and he’s mentioned it a couple times before. i wish him all the best in life

    • Ditto. Do you know him irl or how do you know such things about his personal life?

    • Wait what really, I never knew that. By the way keep up the good work Matt!

  • Dang it, Matt, you never fail to impress with your skills and knowledge sharing abilities. Just, thank you.

  • Pretty sure all you have to do is move the R1 resistor to the R2 position to make it a sub device. That's why its there.

    • it doesnt work

    • THIS!

    • @Pure I found the exact one he used online, it was 56k

    • Lee Adams Yeah what a jack-mule this guy must be. I also would have put the R1 resistor thingy in the R2 majigg. What a clown. We cant all be jeaniouses i guess. Sad

    • USB specification requires different resistance for pull-up and pull-down otherwise you potentially would make it possible for the device to draw more power than the plug can safely supply or the plug to push more power than the device can take. Basically 5.1 kΩ pull-down, 56kΩ pull-up. Remember all those cables being sold using 10kΩ and frying buyers devices ; )

  • The fact that Logitech still doesent sell a usbc reciver feels rediculos.

    • I've only owned one MX Master, let's say if i bought a Logitech wireless gaming mouse, do i need to use it's proprietary dongle, or just connect as in "unify" with my MX Master's dongle?

    • That's actually for a good reason. Since a lot of people don't have devices that have USB-C ports, USB-A is their only option (old PCs for example). People around the world don't upgrade their devices as often as people from developed countries do and Logitech wants to cater to everyone. If you have a device that has USB-C ports, it is highly likely that it will still have at least one USB-A port if not more. Well, unless you have an Apple PC or a newer ultrabook.

    • The need for any dongle is much ridiculous.

    • @tommihommi1 is your mouse like that or used to be like that?

    • @Muki EX it's fairly similar, Bluetooth is just a lot more power optimized and Logitech ranges from balanced to high performance (unifying and lightspeed), but all 3 use the 2.4ghz signal

  • I love how your channel actively pushes back against built in obsolescence and e-waste just by providing ways to upgrade tech and reuse hold hardware. Keep up the good work! Love your content!

    • ya mee too like the one that you repurposed an old laptop (even though all of the ones i tried failed );

  • Great video Matt as usual. CC1 and CC2 can be configured for sinking (Rd = 5.1K) or sourcing (Rp = 51K) the power. On the board, there is a soldering pad named R2. This pad is connected to GND, so simply remove the 51K Rp resistor from R1 pad and put 5.1K Rd resistor on R2 pad. By doing so you will pull down both CC pins (A5 and B5) to GND and so your device will sink power (sub-device) instead of sourcing it (host-device).

  • Hi Matt, thank you so much for sharing your I.T knowledge and electrical skills, making DIY projects so much fun. Look forward to your new videos and take care!

  • the way this man has always got a smile on his face really makes me happy, its so wholesome and relaxingly satisfying to see him channeling his hidden happiness with these videos. keep up the good work matt, we love and appreciate you and every project you make. you’re a huge inspiration to many including myself to get into DIY projects ❤️. keep up the good work bro

  • I always considered lightning, micro usb-b, and type-c connectors to be the same plug-in, and that they only separated phone brands so that you had to buy more things. Glad to see there’s more to it

    • Micro-B at least has the excuse of market demand, where most users would be unhappy to have a chonk regular sized B port on their device. But lightning, while welcome as a change from the old Apple port should imho have been put on hold and instead Apple should have waited and assisted with embracing USB-C. Especially now that they're using it on some of their iPads there's no reason to continue using it other than to sell more adaptors, cables and chargers.

  • Matt, I seriously love your content, and it puts a smile on my face every time I see a new upload. Whether it is giving life to old devices such is this video, or creating something from the ground up, you do so in such a fantastic way. Thank you for all the hard work you very clearly put into your videos so that those of us that are interested in trying to do these types of things, are able to, through very clear instructions. You're the best!

    • @ravecoin long time subcriber here, yeah the quality he puts out is on a whole another level its so professional it doesn't even look diy. the tutorial from start to end product looks so clean and he always comes up with some the most simple and effective mechanisms, he's so creative.

    • Completely agree

    • i think the same

    • thats exactly what i thought and im watching the dude for the first time

  • For me, this smiling genius just proved: The more things change, the more they remain the same. In the old days if you broke a lamp cord, it was fairly easy to fix DIY. The problem nowadays is you have to have eyeballs the size of footballs to see what you are doing-at my age. Thanks for the video!!!

    • I agree at my age it's a extremely difficult to see things as well. Micro micro then Nano. When is enough enough

  • This is really interesting. I'm terrible at soldering but even I'd dare to try things on a 2.0 cable because soldering the wires to the corresponding traces seems comparably easy.

  • Absolutely brilliant! I wish ALL You Tubers would do presentations as professional as this.

  • this is great stuff, I have converted all my micro usb devices to usb-c, the UV curing epoxy is the best in my opinion because it hardens in seconds

  • 7:04 You could have just added a solder blob between Ground and R1 after scraping the trace to V+. Or you just remove R1 and solder it where it says R2. That would save you the hassle of soldering this THT resistor onto the board.

    • @Robert Townsend You missed my point. He cut and scraped the VCC to R2 that's not a bad thing actually if he did that instead he should add a blob on top of both R1 and R2 that way you don't need to add a big resistor or remove completely the SMD resistor on R2. What I said about the left side is actually top left to top right.

    • @Potato Visuals just as simple as that ? no scraping ? just a single blob on the one to the left of it ? you don't have to blob the two together ?

    • @Shakrii as a no novice here, could you please make a video on how to do this because I have no idea what you are talking about and I am preparing to do this to everything in my house.

    • you can't switch the resistor at wish, you'll have to get new SMD resistors. Do your research first, the Sub connector uses 56k Ohm vs 5 ish K ohm on the host connector

    • USB specification requires different resistance for pull-up and pull-down otherwise you potentially would make it possible for the device to draw more power than the plug can safely supply or the plug to push more power than the device can take. Basically 5.1 kΩ pull-down, 56kΩ pull-up. Remember all those cables being sold using 10kΩ and frying buyers devices ; )

  • IMO 8:24 would feel so much more complete when we add a magnetic plug converter as to make the port stays in shape for a longer period. 😁

  • seeing as how you said most usb c breakout boards are host instead of sub, its pretty helpful to specifically use that in this video to show how to change the board from host to sub. If i ever decide to "usb-c"ify something, ill just go with a board thats already sub

  • This is exactly the mouse and laptop I have! I have been searching for a solution by Logitech, but this is perfect! And I can put my soldering experience to good use :D

  • Sweet. Since I got USB cables with magnetic tips, I would love to do this to some of my devices. The cables come with micro and USB C tips but the micro ones are not reversible while the plugs are. It's a shame that it's the sockets that I need to change, more than the plugs.

  • Pro dongle: Most of them have multiple ports (not shown in this video). However, if you have plenty of ports already (not shown on your computer), that's nice. Great work

  • Very well done. You make the complicated simple. I’m looking at my cables in a different way now. Thanks 🙏

  • Super like to the wavelength of this man. Converting general things to a amazing and nice looking things. Keep up the good work buddy.

  • You can get USB-C OTG adapters that will do the same job without having to mess with the resistor.

  • I love how be breaks down everything into easy to understand terms. If I had a teacher like him in high school or even college, I'd probably learn more things easily.

  • I love your content and its very informative. I have so far liked ALL of your hacks and projects but this last one for some reason feels off. For me, I think an adapter would be a better bet instead of gutting that cable. Keep up the good work man. Keep the content coming.

  • Awesome content as always. Thank you, Sir Theon.

  • Thank you Matt, this video was very educational for me. I just made my keyboard detachable using this method.

  • Superb channel. Always a pleasure to see you work neatly! I was able to bump to a pcb software device that may be used for future projects. As far as I recall it's called 'PCB wizard' but that was a long time ago.

  • I've stayed away from the hardware side of computers for a decade or more but this bloke might just pull me back in. Subscribed.

    • Its a nice shortage of learning love it

    • @Crany you do? Do you have an Instagram where I can contact u?

    • I code

    • I'm the other way. I love the hardware side but software scares me for some reason

    • @magaiver I think most of the connectors are SMD, so uhh if you have steady hands and specialised tools, sure go for it

  • Simply love the work you do brother !! Amazing stuff (Y)

  • the epoxy has no give, so you should add sugru around the epoxy and in particular ensure there's a thick quantity of it around where the cable interfaces with the epoxy to provide mechanical strain relief.

  • Great video! I've tried this before and didn't know about the resistor to change from being a host device, so that explains the problem I ran into before.

  • Would be interesting and useful to see a video like this for converting female ports to usb c, maybe on stuff like portable game consoles, controllers or just other devices

    • I would love that too. That would be useful even just for charging. I have got some bluetooth devices that charge via a mini-usb connector still. So not even micro-usb but mini. I would love to convert those to usb-c .

  • 11:18 This is pure diy satisfaction. So cool that the reversible design choice already paid dividends.

  • So I'm pretty sure both versions of the USB-C connectors you used have empty pads that you can move the surface mount resistors to convert from host mode to device mode, rather than scratching and/or kludging the big through hole resistor onto it.

  • Professional, detailed and informative. Excellent!

  • i like how you used the old wire from the usb cables but in keeping with the minimal design should soldered a thin strip of the mini ribbon connectors

  • Thank you Matt, I’m gonna try this out. You saved me millions.

  • Can't wait till everything USB-C One year later: new "USB-C mini" is here

    • Oh god no…. mini and micro USB were horrible, and broke far more easily. You’d basically only be able to use those cables for only a year before replacing them.

    • ​@Rainbow Dash USB 2 is fine if the device isn't bottlenecked by the connection. Input peripherals and sound cards are going to be USB 2 for a while. USB A / B are still the most modern non-miniaturized standards, and will be used in professional desktop deployments for another decade or two.

    • No. USB-C is meant to be ONE connector. No MINI or MICRO USB-C!

    • @Filip Remplakowski your parents must have been clairvoyant when they named you Filip

    • @ducttaperulestheworl mini usb is effectively dead.

  • I would love to hear your thoughts on trying to reterminate an older Thunderbolt 2 Device (aka apples mini display port) to usb c. I understand functionality wouldn't be upgraded necessarily.

  • Very very informative! However, I think the average consumer would best stick to the dongle for now. :)

  • I say without compliments Your work is admirable 👌🏻❤️ I just found your channel today ❤️ Watching this video of yours created a question in my mind If I change my mouse dongle port from USB A to USB Type-C in your way; Does the mouse dongle work without the need for a converter on phones with USB Type-C ports 🤔 I need this to attend online classes. Please guide me as soon as possible 🙏🏻 Thanks🙏🏻

  • I respect your knowledge. Have been followed you since your very first projects back in 2015 :)

  • I like the way he can’t stop smiling😁😁

    • It’s contagious

    • If you were smart and handsome would you ?

    • Its a good man, so smile, its not a belligerant guy

    • I'd smile all the time if I had as many subs 😃

  • I found this very informative and I did learn something that I didn’t know or didn’t think of but unless you like soldering and adding transistors/diodes, you are not saving anything over just buying an adapter. Still a good video.

  • Additionally, I think you can trim off the last 6mm of the mouse pcb. It appears to be empty, added as a handle to grab onto. I'll have to test this

  • I wonder if they sell alternate versions of that breakout board with the resistor already connected in the sub configuration?

    • @Epic Toast I know this is six months old but for anyone wanting to do this, the surface mount resistor for a host breakout like in the video is 56kOhms so you can’t just switch the position. It has to be a 5.1 kOhm

    • @Francisco Chavez Another problem I can see if it is dip switches if they are the single pole variety like the only kind I've seen means you need two dip switches which then makes it possible to pull it both high and low at the same time or just leave it floating, which can cause a lot of damage.

    • @Conor Stewart the epoxy thing could definitely be a problem. As for accidently moving it, well it's been quite a few years, but I have seen dip switches that are almost impossible to switch without one of those flat-heads that you use for fixing glasses. That said, a good dip-switch like that, might have a big impact on the price.

    • @Francisco Chavez That then creates other problems though, such as just using heatshrink to cover a cable, it means that the dip switch could still be moveable or you could accidentally move it whilst using the moldable stuff or maybe even epoxy getting in between the switch contacts.

    • @Xzyer I was wondering about that. It was such an obvious thing to do, when he didn't I just assumed that wouldn't work but couldn't figure out why lol

  • Can you expect a huge difference in transfer speed on say, an external hard drive or CF card reader?

  • (7:11) It looks like there's a trace to the ground pad, and all you'd need to do is desolder/resolder the existing smt resistor on the adjacent pair of pads.

    • I know I don't walk around with surface mount resistors in my drawers! LOL!

    • thats what I tought he was going to do, but when he diys, he diys hard.

    • @Jérôme Vuarand Good info. Do you know or have an example of the different resistor values one would use for a pull down vs a pull up?

    • End of the day, it's his personal device, it works, and it's called DIY. As long as the device is fit for the user's expectations/needs, and they have the satisfaction of making it, and it save a little e-waste, that's a very good thing. Indeed, there is often a better way to do things, but if he were to never post the video until it's perfect, we wouldn't be watching this, and also he might not get this feedback in the first place, I suppose. (On the other hand, these comments would lead me to look harder for the right resistor and think about desoldering rather than scratching traces. So the comments are very good too!)

  • Mind Blowing diy projects. Thanks bro for showing these science tricks !!!

  • Freaking cool. I think this will be my first hardware project.

  • Cleanest soldering I've ever seen lol, thanks for sharing now I can make use of the 11 million usb variants I no longer need lol

  • Not entirely sure that buying these USB breakout boards plus buying a soldering iron and doing the conversion procedure is cheaper and more simple than buying a dongle (if you don't already have one) - nevertheless this is a very useful video.

  • *It's so mesmerizing to see these technical & knowledgeable things never before, KEEP GOING BUDDY.......*

  • I was curious about the whole USB A/B thing and why there were so many connectors and looked it up a while back just to read about the story. This vid summarizes it pretty well. For that hub I am thinking it might be cleaner if you could open up the case and replace it with a cable with the modified connectors all being internal.

  • tip: at 7:13 you have not to scrape copper off the pcb. you simply could unsolder the resistor R1 and place R2 instead.

  • Hi Matt.. would you consider making a webcam from the camera of a damaged phone? since they are better quality (64mp, 32mp etc...)??? would be interesting to see. Keep up the amazing diy's 👍

    • @Bernard Solien np I've definitely researched that before as I wanted to use them for something as they are so small haha

    • @Ben C Thanks for answering Ben. Cheers 🍻

    • the issue is they often use protcols and pinouts that can be figured out or have strange serial wiring tbh

  • Your videos are so well produced, creative, and extremely informative. I've used knowledge you've provided in a few of my own projects and I'm no expert - but I get by thanks to you. Thanks, DIYPerks!

  • Would be nice if you could have made it a double ended receiver! One side Type-A, the other Type-C

  • the mouse dongle... he could leave USB-a contact exposed and it would be a universal wireless dongle. but a very nice starting point. also, don't go overboard with wiring - too thick or too long wires could become antennas and cause data interfierence.

  • Excellent video! Really explains things well. Now, all I have to do is screw up the courage to try this. I'm quite curious to give it a try.

  • 7:10 i think you could change this board type without scraping just by soldering R1 out and soldering in R2

  • You can get adapters that are just about that small, but it was still super interesting to see how simple it would be to convert.

  • Love it to see people making technology their own after tech companies try to profit way too much. People in china build their phones from ground up and thats why sanctions are made. The greedy west dont want that and want to monopolize it. Keep it up with the content!

  • By the time everything gets converted to USB-C then USB-D will probably be out with new features. 😀

  • Some of the best information videos. This one is another great one with the info ive been trying to find from many sources. Thank you for this and all the videos you've posted. Stay safe and God bless...

  • Combining the epoxy glue with a shrink tubing would possibly make the end result even more pleasing.

  • Would love to see if the reverse is possible: adding USB type C charging/data ports to older Micro USB devices like game controllers

    • the dualshock 4 has the usb on a separate board so im surprised nobody has maked a usb c conversion kit

    • @Andy White USB-C can be USB 2.0, in fact many A-to-C dongles are only 2.0. USB C is just a connector.

    • @Andy White I think you have misunderstood Tims requirement. He is just wanting a USB C socket on, for example, a games controller with a USB Micro-B socket. He is not expecting new capabilities. Adaptor cables already exist for this.

    • Its not possible - USB3 and quickcharge (qc3) not only use different cables, they have a completely different chipset design that controls the device. If you want USB3 you'll have to buy a new device designed to "talk" USB3. The idea of USB is that all devices are backwards compatible - so your USB 1 and 2 devices can make themselves understood by a USB3 controller, at least well enough to work their limited bag of tricks - what you can't do is speed up an old device or teach it the new tricks that USB3 uses. While they all have backwards compatibility, none of the older standards could have forward compatibility.

    • Search for the female version on ebay, they have them and would plug up the exact as in the video.

  • This is fantastic content thank you. Well done

  • The pad for R2 there looks like it's purpose was to tie it to ground instead...

  • This guy really genius and overflowing of ideas. Kudos brother. 👌

  • Thanks for informing me on what USBC really is. I always thought it was to replace the lightning cable apple has only.

  • "It looks a little home made" That just makes it better. Stuff that looks homemade yet good are better in the way that they have character and you can e proud of making it yourself. Awesome video as always!

    • I _would_ like but it's at 69

  • I wish they'd give us more ports tho. Especially since USB C is smaller 🥺

  • You make everything tech absolutely sublime.

  • This guy is a genuine living genius!

  • "most devices will have USB C" *USB announces new 240w connection standard* "all devices will have USB C"

  • USB C: Just buy a dongle! Matt: No, I don't think I will.

    • @ForeverMan They aren't dongles anymore.

    • @ForeverMan matt: Hold my soldering iron

    • It was a very useful exercise for our benefit. Funny joke BTW Tom.

    • Man Lil I like my Apple gear and also liked this video. Try being one of the rare few who believe not everything is black and white.

    • Matt is one of the rare few that proves you don't have to be an Apple Sheeple.