Make a 1000w equiv. LED flashlight - aka DIY Sun-Blaster!

פורסם בתאריך 25 מרץ 2015
Here's how to make a phenomenally bright 1000w eqiv. LED flashlight!
Here's the LED we'll be using:
It's designed to be operated with just one hand, with easy control of brightness, and can be powered by either batteries or an AC adapter.
Can be built for around £25 if you get the CPU cooler for cheap.
Major parts list (worldwide shipping):
Heatsink, fan, lens, and mount:
Other parts:
Lens and Reflector:
Voltage Booster (there are two layout varieties floating around. If yours has a different layout than the one I used in the video, then use your own judgement when it comes to wiring up the input/output wires, which should be clearly marked on whichever layout you receive.):
High-Capacity Battery (lasts for AGES):
Heatsink Plaster:
Mini Step Down Regulator (for the fan):
XT60 Connectors:
If you attempt this project you do so at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for any injuries or damages caused to people or property during its construction or use.
I have taken care in making sure the information in this video is accurate. However,I am unable to provide any warranty concerning the accuracy or completeness of any information contained in the video.

תגובות: 3 528

  • That's awesome! You even provided a parts list nice one! I'd love to see how far you could take "hand held" LED lights. You cold do something insane if you used a backpack for batteries and/or cooling. Perhaps the backpack could be optional for boosting intensity/increasing longevity? A lense with a bat symbol would be really cool!

  • Fantastic. I'd love to build one of my own. Would it be possible to add acrylic sheets to the inside of the frame to make it waterproof? Or would that make the heat build up too much? As it is a fantastic flashlight, but I'd not want to ruin it by taking it out on a rainy evening.

  • Thank you for showing your work step by step, in addition to the full report and very helpful about where to find the components. The images were very well made, have a notion very close to the reality of the power of this flashlight. Inspired me a lot!

  • Your dedication to putting people’s mind at ease with “don’t worry I’m going to cover this better in a moment” is commendable.

  • Hey Matt, I love your videos. I'm in the planning stages of putting together a large (3-4' diameter) ring light and want moderately powerful LEDs. Following your link I see that the seller has some 20, 30, 50 watt versions. My main question is about dimming them. I would love to go with some 30 or 50 watt ones but definitely wouldn't want them near their max out put all the time. Just how much can you dim this type of LED before they shut of completely?

  • Hi DIY Perks, very nice video. I love all your project really neat and thoroughly thought, the result of both projection and test on the field . Wish the product that hit our shelves would have half of the consideration you're putting into your work. Do you have a degree in electronics or are you self tought ? Thanks for your inspiring creations.

  • Hi, great tutorial(s) Ive learned alot from watching them. I don't have a background in Electronics by trying to DIY some projects. I was just wondering (hoping this is not a stupid question) but what is the benefit of using a DC booster over lets say connecting 3 12V batteries in series? What do you think is better? thanks for your input!

  • I want to say man that your content has been a solid influence on me getting a cleaner finish with my projects. Bless :)

  • You have awesome craftsmanship skills! I love your creations! ❤️

  • Thank you so much for this guide. You are awesome, please keep up the excellent work!

  • Great video! I would like to make the same thing, but place it inside of a waterproof housing while keeping the heat down. Still not sure how I would, but great instructional nonetheless.

  • I wish I could like this video more than once. Really love this tutorial.

  • You too can build this in only 6000 easy steps.

    • @Paranoid Android v3.0 just like redstone! it's easy, it just haves too much steps

    • :D

    • Haha, spilled all my tea on my pants.

    • Actually, Matt has made it rather easy for us plebians to build such a fantastically bright light source, with materials that can be delivered to your doorstep. And if you try to buy so called video lights, with equivalent brightness ratings, you will end up paying a truckload of cash. Plus there is fun of building involved too, if you're into that kind of stuff.

    • Would have liked the comment but it’s at 420 so wouldn’t dare to touch it

  • He could read for a children's audio book. The most delightful voice on ILaward, I swear.

  • Hi, thanks for video. Final product looks super awesome. After watching this, I've started building my own setup. Have a query: If we were to use this as a flash light, powered by the Lipo battery that you've mentioned, how long does the battery charge last, before the charge runs our, when used at LEDs full power. Would just like to understand whether it would be feasible to have it powered by batteries alone, and not connect it to wall power. Thanks once again.

  • Really well made tutorial. Thank you :)

  • I've watched couple of these Matt's videos. Once this one started I realized that I had seen his first video about a DIY follow focus 8 years ago. Wow! He's gone and done some really cool things since then!

  • I love your videos! They are so fun to watch... Really want to make some of this stuff, but Im not patient enugh to buy stuff online. Keep up the good work!

  • VERRRY nice video work (nice motion tracking, animated dimensioning bits and pieces, spotlighting areas of interest, etc.), and I really like your mechanical fabrication work, but you might do well to learn a bit more about electronics before taking on projects like this. Those 2 devices you broke off of the Boost regulator are not IC's... one is a dual diode, the other is a MOSFET transistor... and it's CRITICAL that they don't get swapped one for the other... if so, the release of the magic smoke will happen... and the regulator board will no longer function without that magic smoke.... Then you reeeeally should use proper TO-220 mounting kit with insulators... expecting "thermal paste" to be the insulation is a bad idea, and it exposes them to possible short-circuit if a tiny metal bit gets lodged in there. When working with such large Lithium batteries, you have a real potential for life-threatening fires... what happens if a short circuit happens when it's in someone's closet? USE FUSES... (ever seen videos of Lithium battery fires?) Extending the MOSFET leads can lead to instabilities in the high frequency switching regulator as well... it's just not a good idea... but if you must, keep the leads as short as possible, and use some silicone rubber over the solder joints where you solder the wires to the Diode and MOSFET. Also, you selected the wrong Boost Regulator for using with an LED. To get maximum brightness from the LED, and yet protect it from burning out, you need to use a Current Regulator.... not just a voltage regulator. Get one with "CV CC" regulation... which has both Voltage and Current regulation. LED's are Current driven devices, and the only way to be SURE you have the proper driving current, is with a current regulating (limiting) power supply... such as: . This brings in another issue, you really need to let people know they need to use a Lithium battery with at least 14.1V (4 cells in series) for a CV/CC boost regulator, anything less than that wont' be enough voltage (they require NO LESS than 11-12V to run). It will run longer with even more cells in series, since the power converter stays more efficient with higher input voltages. You can then set the alarm voltage to 3.0V per cell, which is the standard rating... and it will run even longer. (be certain to use a proper battery charger for whatever battery you end up using!) Example battery pack: That LED should come with a specification, but most 100W LEDs are rated for 3.0 Amps, which will require somewhere between 32-35V DC. If you set your power supply to 30.0V, you aren't getting full brightness. You should set the Current Limit at 3.0A (or a slight bit less), and leave it there permanently. Then you can adjust the Voltage pot (like you have done) up to 35V maximum (before connecting it to the LED), and once you have it driving the LED, it will never exceed 3.0A no matter what, but will give FULL brightness when adjusted to your maximum voltage. Another reason to use CV/CC regulation is that the voltage needed to maintain the proper LED current will change as the LED heats and cools. As it gets hotter, the "forward voltage" of the LED drops, which causes the LED to draw more current, which causes it to heat up more, which causes it to draw more current (if you don't also have Current Regulation)... and you end up in what's called "thermal runaway", and a burnt out LED... all because you aren't limiting or regulating the Current driving the LED. Sorry... but as a lifelong EE, it's hard for me to just "pass by" and not say a "few" words... :-)

    • I know that I'm late, but I am planning on getting some 100w full spectrum grow lights, and it didn't make sense that a CV/CC wasn't used (I've been lead to believe that you either need a CV/CC power source or a current limiting resistor, and a 100w resistor would get real hot) so I'm glad that I wasn't missing anything. Honestly, your comment should be pinned.

    • @***** Thanks a lot! I'm gonna buy one.

    • @Shunsuke Watanabe I have the same boost converter... it seems to be working fine soo far but I'm only running it at ~70w (according to the internal display) and the coil is the grey thing with 4R7 written on it.

    • @beforebefore Thanks for commenting here. Your advice is golden. If I did't read your comment I would have embarked on a very dangerous travel by myself. I think the author of this video should put some cautions somewhere. By the way, what do you think about this converter? It looks good with a digital display and all but I can't find any coils on it. I wonder why this converter can boost voltage without coils.

    • @beforebefore Thank you, and yes those flat ones didn't know the rated current is the hold current and not the cutoff current... I just ordered a kfz Fuse holder and will give it a shot (still waiting for a few parts and deciding on the battery). The way I have it right now (12v gel battery) I'm a bit concerned about the startup current of the boost converter due to the amount of sparks that fly when I connect the leads too slow...

  • I'd love to see a thermistor to control the fan, mounted somewhere on the LED assembly, so you don't need to adjust the fan manually

  • Brilliant video! Is there any way to add a strobe function to the flashlight? New to electronics so have no clue, but your videos are really informative!

  • Great video! I've watched it multiple times. So helpful! DIY Perks (or anyone): how did you do the calculation for the 10k Pot and the R1 & R2 resistors (schematic at 4:09)? How did you determine the output of the Pots (when properly configured) would yield 26V-30V?

    • Maybe the fuction of R1 or R2 is just a protection because the trimpot and potentiometer have a value of 10k ohms. Right?

    • I want to know too...😁

  • Op is taking time to explain to us how to make a cool gadget. Thanks OP. I am at a loss as to what the negatives are saying. No need and totally unwarranted in my opinion. Keep up the work. I'll be taking some of your concepts and applying them to my mega torch build. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep the internet free and safe for all.

  • Not only is this an awesome DIY project, but also Incredibly well-produced! Great work, subscribed.

  • i have seen many DIY this guy is unreal!! i extremely love ur content and explanation.

  • Loving all your idea, and already giving a couple a good myself! Don’t know if you’re taking suggestions, but what about a DIY wake-up light, using LED strips??

  • This looks so badass! I love the projects here man. Subscribing!

  • Hi Matt, First of all i would like to say that i am fan of your DIYs and the quality you achieve. Thanks for your videos. After watching your video of " Make a 1000w equiv. LED flashlight - aka DIY Sun-Blaster! ", i tried a similar one and was successful. i have installed it on my motorcycle for long highway night drives. Though the light output is extremely bright, however, i am able to use it only as flood beam. as the Glass lens has a beam angle of 60-80 degrees. (physically appears to be covering greater angle) My intention was to use it as an focused spot beam light. Is there a possibility to work around to get a narrow spot beam angle say 30 degrees? Or is there any narrow beam lens available online?

  • Nice build :-). Thanks for taking the time to put it out here for us! I noticed your soldering is to hot and you had old solder on it that makes your soldering a bit bad. I would suggest getting a better solder iron and also to wipe the tip with a wet sponge before each soldering, Before soldering a spot, add some fresh solder to the tip and before the flux have evaporated perform the soldering, you have about a 4 seconds window to do it. It should make your soldering shiny and nice with some practice. Best regards //Harry

    • @DIY Perks none of this parts are available on ebay anymore what to do?

    • @Harry Zachrisson Thanks for the tips!

  • I made a spotlight version of this with a motion detector and mounted it on a pole. Funny to watch ppl get startled on my security cameras.

    • Would like to watch this

    • @Robot Munkee yea obviously

    • Fellow Canadian

    • Yes Please Show Us A Video Of This

    • This deserves a ILaward video

  • Wow, inspiring. My question is, does the heatsink need to be that big for the 100w led, or is a small heatsink with a fan on the back sufficiënt?

    • Pretty much yes. 100 watts is going to produce a insane amount of heat, a 50 watt cpu can be used to cook meat. So unless you wish your flashlight to be uncomfortably hot I'd go for a big heat sink. Then again it could double as a hand warmer in cold conditions.

  • Great job! Thank you for this detailed tutorial! Only one question - 7:41 Why 30v? According to Electrical Characteristics on ebay voltage must be: Min 32, Typ 34, Max 36

    • I've set 35v. White smoke appears and one element labeled "R010" on the voltage booster become black.

  • Love the project! Would you be bale to add a strobe light circuit to it ?

  • I like how you used the main heat sink for cooling the boosting circuit.

  • I have literally no hope of being able to follow the instructions but it was fun to watch.

    • As 99% of his videos

    • true

    • Mustaali Kapasi don’t be put off, really simply when you look. Anything on that level and any level just works on a circle, make a circle with the wire from power to object and it works! You won’t get a shock off anything like that

    • You can do it, buy the stuff needed, play video for a step, pause, do the step, play next step and repeat If you can’t solder(only maybe tricky bit) just watch a solder tutorial video first and try joining some random wire together If you not worked a volt meter just whack it on valtage ac and touch the terminals, really easy :) From scratch you can buy tooling for this for about 40 minimum and you will use again and again in future

    • @Cicada 3301 that too :D

  • It's exactly what I was searching for! Great Job

  • Dear DIY Perks. Your videos are really awesome. Question if i wanted to use that set up for three 10w RGB leds with voltages from 8-12v do i need different potentiometers and resistors? The idea is to dimm each colour individually to get good control over the colour so one curcuit for each.... can i do the exact same? Thank you in advance!

  • "Can be built for around £25 " shame the battery alone is 46 dollars ;) Still I like this project, it looks very professional and very useful :)

    • @Synthetic_Future Can't you just series-connect a bunch of AAs or 9V batteries?

    • @ThaTyger you could probably make your own powerpack with 18650 batteries but i doubt it will be much cheap (20$) for a you do it yourself thing. which wouldn't last as long.

    • @***** Sure, it wouldn't be too much power but it would still be _some_ power for _no_ benefit (not to mention the higher purchase cost). If, however, we were talking about a different design where the space behind the LED is limited, then water cooling could be a viable option.

    • @***** While I do have to cede to your point on power consumption, I can't imagine it would be so much more that it would run down a large capacity battery so quickly. But, to be completely fair, I'm looking at this from the build perspective of a wall-based power source, with battery as optional. Also, a water cooler might be more advantageous if one were to implement this light into a panel design, rather than a box-style flashlight.

    • @***** I was talking about the “7000 lumen” flashlight the guy I was replying to linked (which, by the way, also seems shady because it is advertised as a Cree flashlight but Cree doesn't make flashlights, only the LEDs used in them) but I'll reply anyway. The point of water cooling is moving the heat away from a source to some place where you can dissipate it easily (i.e. not in the middle of a cramped PC case) but you still need a radiator of the same size to dissipate it. Since there are no problems with space in this build, there would be no benefit in using a water cooling system (quite the opposite in fact-it would take more power because in addition to running the fan, it would also need to pump the water around).

  • amazing light! and amazing DIY skills you have there.

  • Before watching: Oh man, I can't wait to make one of these After watching: Nevermind

  • this is absolutely amazing!!!! I think Perk should teach us how to make 100w lazer.

  • Neat! you could also build the frame just a -little- taller, mount the fan on the bottom and build a somewhat waterproof enclosure for it... at least enough to fight light rain and the like

  • Never thought of using aluminium angle like that. New skill added thanks :)

  • This is so very inspiring for me as I do not have an HMI plus generator to film outdoor night scenes. I am impressed!

  • 7:00 Mounting the resistors without the use of insulating pads may be a very bad idea. Btw, very nice project =)

  • Great build but please be aware that extending pins on power mosfets like so can have major negative consequences to the operation of the boost converter:)

  • Finally completed my build! Thanks for the vid and inspiration!

  • Hello. I find your videos very easy to follow and educational. I have seen that many of your projects include LED's as well as some incorporating computers and music. I have strips of 3528 RGB LEDs and I was wanting to figure out a way to power them and have them respond to music. Ideally I would like this to be done using an algorithm that is tied directly to the computer internal EQ (i.e. red responding to various gains of bass, green to various gains of mids, and blue responding to various gains of highs) I would like it to be internal so that it's not volume dependent, or effected by other noise, but all of this is just preference. Is this the kind of project you might put into a video?

  • Muito Bom...

  • Brilliant video mate! I'm in the process of making this, with some alterations. instead of using a hobby car battery, I'm using an 18v 5.0ah Milwaukee battery as I'm an electrician and all of my tools are Milwaukee so using the same batteries is handy. added bonus the safety cut off circuitry is in the battery is self and also has a fuel gauge. half way there I will post my results when I'm done.

  • Another awesome video man. Only watched 30 seconds so far but know the next 21 minutes will be epic :D

  • Wow, this is amazing! can you please tell me is it easy to pulse it as well?

  • Great project. I'm wondering if I could add a Bowens style mount to this and unlock more creative options.

  • Thank you for this video. It's a great alternative to aperture's lights. Would you mind making another video light tutorial?

  • Even though I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about 90% of the time, I still find your videos so enjoyable! Good job!

  • hi, great vid, thanks, one question though, the 100w led chips working voltage is between 30 and 36 volts, is there a way to make the driver variable between lets say 25 and 35 volts instead of between 25 and 30 volts like you do? so it variating low to high about 10 volts instead of 5 volts like you do. the led would burn brighter that way. and then i would still be able to dim it a desent amound...

  • Man! Like your videos! build one myself. My friends are amazed!! Id like to know how to put some filters in front of the led panel, and which filters(different collers etc.)??? brings so much more livelyhood to the room in my opinion. Kind regards

  • Hey man. Great video! I'm ordering all the parts today times three. Any advice on how to modify as a scuba light?

  • Very well done! I've been looking for super bright DIY LED projects. :-)

  • Wow, you're very good with video. :) I see you've really gotten into mods involving huge heatsinks!

  • Hi! How did you prevent voltage drop?

  • Yet again, a fantastically comprehensive video

  • Hi! I just found your page tonight. Wonderful instructional videos. Thanks!

  • Brilliant video great explanation with a good clear voice thank you.

  • Hot damn, that's ingenious, I need to make one of these, and I've got a pretty large old heatsink I could use.

  • Nice. Very simple, but guess not so easy to make :)

  • Interesting! I might have to do this, as I actually have similar items to build it.

  • Adapting this to work with a bowens mount would be amazing.

  • That is pretty awesome. I'd be tempted to find a fried Ryobi tool, take the socket for that, and use the Ryobi 18v batteries. I can then use the charger and swap batteries quick and easy and charge them using the normal charger.

  • I can only imagine the amount of work put onto projecting, building and editing. Awesome work! Please keep it up :)

  • I've wanted to build this for roughly two years, and received a CPU cooler for free roughly 8 months ago. Finally ordered the rest of the parts yesterday, can't wait to build it :)

    • I got mine on amazon - a company called Lohas carries them, in both warm and cool. I got a warm one, it looks great. just search "LOHAS 100w LED chip" on amazon, it should come right up. If you can't find anything else, let me know, i'll show you where to find it.

    • where did you find the LED? it seems that the listing has ended...

  • Used these LED's as headlights on my car. Works great.

  • I have always considered myself a bit of am amateur electrician, programmer, carpenter, ect... Maker in general but this man makes me feel like an infant with his level understanding and diversity within the multitude trades and hobbies he covers. Also I swear he only uses aluminium in such quantity so he can say it all the time. When I say it it makes me think of junk metal, when he says it, IDK, it makes me feel oddly comfortable and at ease with using this junk metal for absolutely anything.

  • For outdoor use, wouldn't it be good to surround the frame with a thin wall to prevent massive water intake and all as well as help to guard the circuit?

  • Damn im never going to do such thing or at least in the near future, but i watched the whole video from 0:00 to 21:42 its just so entertaining and made with so much love (no homo) that it makes me want that you make more videos! !

  • Awesome build... May I ask what grit is the sand paper you used for the lens?

  • Could you provide a Basic schematic of this build, including the potentiometer diagram? Thanks

  • Use heatshrink the ends of each soldered connection to prevent short-circuiting and also makes your work look more professional.

  • I'm trying to build this monstrosity, but have a few questions, did you test the boost converter to LED setup with a bench power supply first? Did you notice any jitters with the LED? I would love to have your help with this if you have the chance. Thanks so much for pioneering the way for this project! :)

  • I've built 2 of these into the lower mesh grill of my Mazda MX5 mark 1, fans not needed if your moving, totally illegal but very bright.

    • Might as well buy a proper light, hell of a lot brighter